The Lada Legend - On the Road to Dashkesan: Mingechevir

Our epic thousand kilometre four-day roadtrip start with a seven hour drive to Mingechevir--a town constructed by Germans and Soviets due to the dam building activities that were taking place there in 1948. It was also the home of a former Peace Corps volunteer, Kim Joyce. Our plan was to show up unannounced and find out just how much street cred Kim had. We figured that if we asked around, people would likely point us in the right direction. Kim remained skeptical, but was indeed interested in the results of the test.

The ride out of Baku was highlighted mainly by a trip up to some mud volcanoes and a gigantic pan of tomatoes and eggs for lunch. I was impressed at how the Colonel handled himself against decidedly faster and more modern traffic. Even with five people and a loaded trunk, the old boy managed to cruise along without much in the way of difficulty.

Upon arrival in Ming (as Kim likes to call it), we hit the bazaar and started asking around. At first we were pointed in the direction of a "Yugoslavian" teacher's house. Not surprisingly there was no one at the place from Yugoslavia. It took us about 30 minutes to find a guy that knew who we were talking about. He sold eggs to Kim on a regular basis. "Ah yes, I know her. She lives somewhere over there," and pointed in the direction we needed to walk. It was a mere thirty seconds away, but we asked someone else just in case. She confirmed the egg man's directions, so we continued into a courtyard. One of the old ladies looking down at the courtyard from her balcony (as old ladies do so often here) simply pointed at Kim's apartment and said "4th floor".

*Knock knock* "You gotta be f****** kidding me!" Kim has street cred. Simple as that.

Mingechevir is known for two things: the reservoir created by the dam and the Kur river. At night, residents like to head down to the riverside and drink tea at makeshift plastic tables. During the day in the summer months, they head to the reservoir to go swimming. Strangely, the buildings in and around the "beach" have not received a makeover. They remain the brilliant Soviet relics they were forty years ago. Case in point: a deserted underground restaurant.

It's pitch black and decrepit now but at one time it must've been quite the dining experience. Descending into it is like going into a cave. Fake stalactites and stalagmites are everywhere and there is even a little stream. And there is no mistaking that musty "I'm in an underground restaurant" smell. The natural instinct would be to get out of there as soon as possible. But I had heard there was a giant cement spider lurking somewhere. This is not something you want to miss. Stay tuned for pictures.

Back on the "beach", we took our customary pictures with the Colonel and took off back to Kim's. Mingechevir treated us well, but it was now time to head for Yevlax to see our favourite decapitated former Soviet leader.